Beyond the Oxygen: How to Train for High-Altitude Success with Exercise Physiologist Nick Hart

Are you preparing for a high-altitude expedition or dreaming of tackling a summit like Kilimanjaro or Everest? Training for altitude is essential to ensure a safe and successful climb. In Episode 17 of Finding Elevation Podcast, I spoke with Nick Hart, a seasoned exercise physiologist from the Altitude Center in London, to unlock the secrets of high-altitude training. Here, we’ll cover Nick’s insights on how our bodies adapt to reduced oxygen, strategies for hypoxic training, and common mistakes climbers make in altitude preparation.

Whether you're an experienced climber or a beginner, these insights will prepare you to train smarter, climb higher, and stay safer.

What is Hypoxia and Why Does It Matter for Climbers?

At high altitudes, the oxygen level in the air decreases—a phenomenon known as hypoxia. This oxygen scarcity puts significant stress on the body, affecting energy, endurance, and overall performance. Nick explains that as altitude increases, the body undergoes a series of physiological adaptations. These adaptations help climbers better utilize oxygen and sustain physical exertion in oxygen-poor environments.

Key Takeaway: By understanding how hypoxia affects your body, you can make informed decisions about training methods, acclimatization strategies, and preparation.

Effective Hypoxic Training Methods to Boost Altitude Performance

Hypoxic training allows climbers to simulate high-altitude conditions, triggering crucial adaptations before they even reach the mountain. Nick Hart describes two primary approaches:

1. Prolonged Hypoxic Exposure
   This method involves using hypoxic tents, allowing climbers to sleep in a low-oxygen environment to stimulate red blood cell production. More red blood cells mean more oxygen can be delivered to muscles and tissues, supporting endurance at high altitudes.

2. Intermittent Hypoxic Exposure
   This technique uses mask-based systems or altitude chambers, often during exercise, to improve muscle efficiency and oxygen usage. By training the mitochondria and capillaries in your muscles, this approach builds the endurance needed for summit days and long expeditions.

Which Training Style is Right for You?
The answer depends on your specific goals. Climbers aiming for extreme peaks (like Everest or Aconcagua) often benefit from prolonged hypoxic exposure, while those tackling lower elevations (such as Kilimanjaro) can use intermittent methods for effective acclimatization.

The Role of Genetics in Altitude Tolerance

One of the most intriguing insights Nick shared is the role of genetics in altitude tolerance. Not everyone’s body responds the same way to high-altitude conditions, and this variation is often genetic. According to Nick, genetic testing can help determine how well your body tolerates altitude and identify risks for altitude sickness. This knowledge is essential for climbers planning rapid ascents or those with limited acclimatization time.

Tip: Consider genetic testing if you’re prone to altitude sickness or planning a fast-paced climb. This knowledge allows for tailored acclimatization and training strategies, potentially preventing altitude sickness.

Common Mistakes in High-Altitude Training – And How to Avoid Them

Nick emphasizes that altitude challenges are often underestimated. Here are some frequent mistakes he sees and tips on how to avoid them:

• Underestimating Altitude Training Requirements
  Many climbers make the mistake of thinking a “smaller” mountain like Kilimanjaro or Everest Base Camp doesn’t require serious training. The reality? Even lower-altitude climbs can be strenuous, especially with a quick ascent. Invest in a proper altitude training plan, no matter the climb’s elevation.

• Going Too High Too Fast
  Climbers sometimes rush their hypoxic training. Nick advises a gradual approach: start at lower simulated altitudes and progressively increase. Just as you’d climb gradually in real life, your body needs time to adjust to higher simulated altitudes.

Golden Rule for Training: Train hard, climb easy. Thorough training pays off in strength, endurance, and a safer climb.

4 Golden Rules for Altitude Success

In addition to smart training, Nick emphasizes these four foundational practices for any high-altitude journey:

1. Eat Well – High-calorie intake is essential at altitude.

2. Stay Hydrated – Drink more water than usual; altitude dehydrates quickly.

3. Sleep Deeply – Sleep is crucial for recovery.

4. Climb Slowly – A gradual pace reduces strain and enhances acclimatization.

Whether you’re heading to Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua, or Everest, following these four principles helps to maximize performance and minimizes risk.

Preparing for Your First High-Altitude Climb? Here’s What to Do Next

Altitude training might seem complex, but you don’t have to figure it out alone. Here are some actionable steps to take if you’re planning your first climb:

• Seek Out Hypoxic Training Facilities
  If possible, find a local hypoxic training center. Even a few sessions can give you a sense of how your body responds to low-oxygen environments.

• Test Your Altitude Tolerance
  Consider genetic testing if you’ve experienced altitude sickness in the past or are preparing for an expedition with a rapid ascent.

• Focus on Physical Fitness and Conditioning
  Altitude tolerance is crucial, but physical fitness is just as important. Build a solid foundation in strength, cardio, and endurance.

Ready to Learn More? Listen to Episode 17

If you’re eager to learn more about training for altitude and preparing your body for high mountains, listen to my full conversation with Nick Hart on Finding Elevation here. You’ll find invaluable advice, insights, and stories from Nick’s work with elite climbers around the world.

Unlocking Smarter Training: Personalized Heart Rate Zones, Fuel Utilization, and the Power of the Aerobic Threshold

If you’re looking to improve your endurance performance, whether for running, cycling, or mountaineering, understanding your heart rate zones, fuel sources, and aerobic threshold can be game-changing. In this guide, we’ll break down how these concepts work, why they’re essential for endurance athletes, and how you can apply them to your training for maximum efficiency and performance.

What Are Heart Rate Zones and Thresholds?

One of the most important aspects of personalized training is understanding your heart rate zones and thresholds. Unlike a one-size-fits-all approach, heart rate zones are unique to each individual. Knowing your own zones allows you to tailor your training to your body’s specific needs, helping you avoid overtraining and achieve peak performance.

There is no “good” or “bad” heart rate zone—it’s all about what works for you. The heart rate spectrum ranges from your resting heart rate to your maximum heart rate, and as your heart rate increases, your body undergoes different metabolic and physiological changes. This progression is essential to understand, as it enables you to optimize your training based on how your body reacts at each intensity level.

Energy Sources and Fuel Utilization: The Role of Fat and Carbohydrates

Our bodies rely on two primary fuel sources for energy: fat and carbohydrates. The body switches between these fuel sources depending on the intensity of the exercise:

• Fat as Fuel: When energy demand is low, the body primarily uses fat as fuel. Fat requires oxygen for breakdown, making it an ideal source during low-intensity, aerobic activities where oxygen supply is ample. Think of it as a slow, steady fuel that your body can rely on for long durations—similar to how a bear uses stored fat during hibernation.

• Carbohydrates as Fuel: As exercise intensity increases, the body shifts from fat to carbohydrates, which can be broken down with or without oxygen. This quick-release fuel source is ideal for high-intensity activities, but unlike fat, it’s limited. Once glycogen stores (the stored form of carbohydrates) are depleted, performance can suffer unless replenished.

Understanding how your body switches between these fuel sources is key to optimizing endurance. The point at which your body shifts from using fat to primarily using carbohydrates is known as the aerobic threshold, also called the first lactate threshold or first ventilatory threshold.

The Importance of the Aerobic Threshold for Endurance Athletes

The aerobic threshold is critical for endurance training because it allows athletes to remain in an aerobic state for longer, conserving glycogen stores and relying on the body’s abundant fat stores for fuel. Endurance athletes, like marathon runners, cyclists, and mountaineers, need this efficiency to perform hour after hour, especially on back-to-back training days or multi-day expeditions.

In endurance sports, maximizing fat utilization at the aerobic threshold can make a significant difference in performance. Building aerobic capacity allows your body to adapt and become more efficient at using fat as a primary fuel source, resulting in increased endurance and a more sustainable pace.

How to Measure and Improve Your Aerobic Threshold

One of the key takeaways is that there is no one-size-fits-all aerobic threshold, as each person’s heart rate varies based on factors like age, fitness level, and individual physiology. The good news is there are several ways to measure and monitor your aerobic threshold:

1. Laboratory Testing: The most accurate way to determine your aerobic threshold is through lab testing, which provides precise data on your heart rate, lactate levels, and ventilatory threshold.

2. Heart Rate Drift Test: This self-administered test involves maintaining a steady pace and monitoring changes in heart rate over time to find your aerobic threshold.

3. Breathing Shift Observation: You can also gauge your threshold by noting the heart rate at which your breathing shifts from nasal breathing to mouth breathing. This point often corresponds to your aerobic threshold.

It’s also worth noting that aerobic threshold can decrease at high elevations, making it crucial for mountaineers to consider this factor when training and planning their climbs. For those preparing for altitude, focusing on the aerobic threshold heart rate during training can help maximize endurance and efficiency in low-oxygen environments.

How to Apply Aerobic Threshold Training in Your Routine

Once you know your aerobic threshold, you can use this information to structure your cardio and endurance training around it. Here’s how:

• Focus on Aerobic Threshold Training: The majority of your cardio sessions should target your aerobic threshold heart rate, allowing your body to build efficiency at using fat as fuel. This will help you go longer and recover faster.

• Balance with Higher-Intensity Workouts: Incorporate some higher-intensity workouts above your aerobic threshold to improve your body’s ability to use carbohydrates as fuel and to increase overall fitness. However, keep these sessions limited to avoid depleting glycogen stores too quickly, which can impact endurance.

• Monitor Your Progress: As your fitness level improves, your aerobic threshold may also shift, meaning you can gradually increase your training intensity while staying aerobic.

The Neuroscience of Performance: Insights from Torrie Higgins on Building Mental Resilience

In this episode of Finding Elevation, I sit down with performance coach Torrie Higgins, whose unique background in neuroscience and performance psychology has shaped her approach to working with elite performers—from military special forces to high-level entrepreneurs and athletes. Torrie’s journey from academia to coaching provides powerful insights into how we can all push beyond our limits and thrive under pressure.

How Neuroscience Shapes Performance

Torrie explains how her background in neuroscience has equipped her to understand the biological mechanisms that impact performance. She emphasizes that peak performance is rooted in understanding how our brain and body function under stress. Through science-backed coaching, Torrie helps her clients navigate demanding environments by teaching them how to optimize their physiology for success.

“Personality doesn’t scale, but biology does,” she says. This foundational principle drives her work, focusing on equipping people with tools to harness their physiological responses and perform at their best, no matter the environment.

Key Techniques for Mental Resilience

One of the central topics in this episode is the development of mental resilience. Torrie shares her top strategies for building a mindset that fosters success, even in high-stress situations:

• Mindset Training: Torrie emphasizes that mental conditioning isn’t a one-time event; it’s a continuous practice. She encourages creating a weekly mindset practice, where you assess your goals and identify potential limiting beliefs that could hold you back.

• Recognizing and Reframing Negative Emotions: One of Torrie’s go-to techniques is teaching her clients how to recognize negative emotions, such as anxiety, and reframe them. “Anxiety is a liar,” she says, explaining that our fear response can often distort reality. By challenging these thoughts, athletes and professionals alike can break free from self-imposed limits.

• Flow State Mastery: Torrie also dives into the science of achieving a flow state, which is where individuals perform their best. She explains that it’s crucial to recognize the “struggle phase” that precedes flow and embrace it as a necessary part of growth. Once you learn to navigate this cycle, you can consciously enter a flow state more easily.

Optimizing Your Day for Peak Performance

Another fascinating area of discussion is Torrie’s advice on how to design your day for optimal performance. Drawing on research from chronobiology, she explains how understanding your body’s natural rhythms can help you plan high-intensity work during your most productive hours.

For example, early birds can achieve higher cognitive performance in the first four hours of their day, where focused work becomes more effective. On the flip side, creative or brainstorming tasks are often better suited for the afternoon when our cognitive energy naturally dips, allowing more divergent thinking.

To dive deeper into Torrie’s neuroscience-backed strategies for performance, listen to the full podcast episode here and learn how to elevate your mindset and performance in any environment.

What You Need to Know Before Climbing Aconcagua: Tips for Success

Aconcagua, standing at an impressive 22,841 feet (6,962 meters), is the highest peak in the Southern Hemisphere and a coveted summit for mountaineers worldwide. Located in Argentina, this "Stone Sentinel" draws climbers eager to test their limits. In this episode of Finding Elevation, we explore everything you need to know before taking on Aconcagua—one of the Seven Summits.

The Aconcagua Climbing Experience

Aconcagua’s climbing season runs from November to March, which is summer in South America. While it may not require technical climbing skills, the challenges of high altitude, weather, and carrying heavy gear make this mountain no walk in the park. The mountain’s most popular routes—the Normal Route and the 360 Route—offer distinct experiences for climbers.

The Normal Route: Known for its low technical difficulty but grueling length, this 42-mile route can take up to three weeks from start to finish. With a success rate of around 50%, preparation is key.

The 360 Route: A more gradual approach to acclimatization, this 64-mile route is longer and takes more time but offers a more solitary experience due to fewer climbers.

Challenges to Expect

Aconcagua presents several challenges, from extreme weather conditions to the physical demands of the climb. Temperatures can drop to zero Fahrenheit (or lower) at the summit, and wind gusts reach up to 100 miles per hour. Precipitation is generally low, but snow and quick-changing conditions are always a possibility.

One key challenge is managing heavy packs, as climbers are often required to carry their gear across rocky terrain. For those looking for relief, porters are available to help, carrying up to 20kg of gear for a fee, making the ascent a bit easier.

Gear and Preparation

Climbers should be prepared with the right gear, including crampons, an ice axe, and a harness—although technical skills aren’t required for Aconcagua. It's highly recommended that you gain experience with high-altitude climbs in locations like Ecuador or Mexico before attempting Aconcagua.

Training Tip: Focus on building strength and endurance. Practice ascending and descending rocky terrain with a weighted pack. If you live in a flat area, use urban environments or gym exercises that simulate unstable terrain to prepare for the demands of Aconcagua.

Mental Preparation

Beyond the physical challenges, Aconcagua requires strong mental resilience. Expedition-style climbing involves long days, tough conditions, and sometimes little sleep. Being comfortable with discomfort is key to success. Planning ahead for challenges—whether it's managing homesickness or handling harsh weather—can make all the difference.

Mindset Tip: Approach each setback as a learning opportunity and mentally prepare for the stressors of being in a remote, high-altitude environment.

Nutrition and Hydration

Fueling your body is crucial during the expedition, but appetite often decreases at high altitudes. Reframing food as fuel rather than a choice will help keep you energized. Hydration is equally important, as the combination of high altitude and physical exertion can quickly lead to dehydration.

Ready to take on Aconcagua? Listen to the full podcast episode here to hear more about preparing for this legendary summit. And visit  Alpine Athletics for training plans to help you achieve your climbing goals.

Jason Widup’s Journey: Overcoming Anxiety, One Summit at a Time

Jason Widup never set out to become a mountaineer. Like many of us, he was looking for a way to manage stress and anxiety—a way to step out of the chaos of everyday life. In this episode of Finding Elevation, Jason shares his compelling journey from feeling overwhelmed to standing at the summit of Mount Rainier.

For Jason, it all started with something as simple as a walk around his neighborhood. What began as a small step toward mental well-being gradually turned into hiking, and before he knew it, he set his sights on Mount Rainier—a goal that would take him far beyond what he ever thought was possible.

A Pathway to Resilience

Mountaineering didn’t just challenge Jason physically; it reshaped his entire approach to life. For him, the mountains represented a place where he could clear his mind and let go of stress. As he began training for Mount Rainier, he quickly realized that it wasn’t just about building physical strength—it was about developing the mental fortitude to keep going when everything seemed impossible.

In his own words: “You can’t just rely on fitness. You need to learn how to push through the hard moments mentally, especially when you’re high up in the mountains and feeling isolated.”

First Attempt: A Lesson in Humility

Jason’s first attempt at summiting Mount Rainier wasn’t successful, but it was far from a failure. He talks openly about how that experience humbled him and gave him a clearer understanding of what it really takes to climb a mountain of that magnitude.

“I thought I was ready,” Jason recalls. “But the mountain taught me that I needed to respect the process and respect my own limits.”

Rather than seeing it as a defeat, Jason used that first attempt as a learning experience. He took a step back, reassessed his training, and most importantly, worked on his mindset. When he returned for a second attempt, he was more prepared—not just physically, but mentally as well.

Climbing Towards Clarity

For Jason, climbing became more than just a sport. It became a pathway toward mental clarity. As he explains in the podcast, mountaineering offered him a way to escape from the pressures of work and life, allowing him to reset.

“I found peace in the mountains,” he says. “It wasn’t just about reaching the top—it was about finding my own sense of calm.”

This mindset helped Jason approach life’s challenges differently, turning setbacks into opportunities for growth. Whether facing the physical toll of climbing or dealing with stress in his everyday life, the lessons he learned from the mountains stayed with him.

Jason’s story is a powerful reminder that sometimes, the mountains teach us more about ourselves than we ever imagined. To hear more about his journey and gain insights into how you can apply his lessons to your own life, listen to the full episode of Finding Elevation here.

Optimizing Nutrition for Mountain Athletes: Expert Tips from Dietitian Rebecca Dent

In this episode of Finding Elevation, I had the pleasure of speaking with Rebecca Dent, a dietitian specializing in sports nutrition for mountain athletes. With over 20 years of experience, Rebecca has worked with hundreds of climbers and ultra-endurance runners, helping them optimize their nutrition for better performance.

Fueling for Mountain Performance

Rebecca emphasizes that a common mistake athletes make is not planning or practicing their nutrition strategy before heading into the mountains. Whether you're summiting a peak or running an ultra-endurance race, proper fueling is crucial. Athletes often think, "I’ll just eat whatever I bring," but without a clear strategy, energy levels can plummet, leading to bonking—a condition where glycogen stores are depleted, causing extreme fatigue.

Key Tip: Plan your nutrition per hour of moving time. Whether it’s real food or sports products, ensure you’re consuming 200-400 calories of carbohydrates every hour to maintain energy levels.

The Importance of Hydration

Rebecca explains that many athletes underestimate the importance of hydration, starting their training or climbs already dehydrated. She stresses that starting your day well-hydrated can significantly affect your performance. Even slight dehydration increases heart rate and perceived effort, making physical tasks feel much harder.

Pro Tip: Calculate your daily hydration needs by multiplying your body weight in kilograms by 35 milliliters. Make sure to hydrate consistently, not just when you feel thirsty.

Planning for High Altitude

When it comes to fueling at high altitudes, Rebecca points out that the digestive system slows down, making it harder to digest protein. Carbohydrates become the preferred fuel source at altitude. She suggests practicing your nutrition plan during training so that when it’s time to climb, your body is used to eating on the go.

Strategy: Create a detailed nutrition plan that includes specific foods and hydration strategies for each day of your mountain adventure. This will reduce decision-making and ensure you’re fueling consistently.

Recovery Nutrition

According to Rebecca, recovery starts immediately after you finish a training session or summit. Consuming a recovery shake that includes carbohydrates, protein, and fluids helps restore energy levels and promotes muscle repair.

Recovery Tip: Use products like Tailwind Recovery or a simple shake with milk and a banana to kickstart the recovery process after a long day in the mountains.

Want to dive deeper into Rebecca’s nutrition insights? Listen to the full episode of Finding Elevation with Rebecca Dent here and learn how to elevate your performance through optimized nutrition.

Coping with the Post-Summit Letdown: A Guide for Climbers

Summiting a peak is an incredible achievement, but what comes after can sometimes feel less thrilling. This guide delves into the "letdown effect," a common experience among climbers after reaching a significant goal, and provides strategies for coping with it.

Understanding the Letdown Effect

The letdown effect is a phenomenon where climbers feel a decline in mental and physical well-being after a peak experience. Symptoms may include apathy, fatigue, and even physical signs like hair loss. This can happen due to the loss of routine and the strong bonds formed during the climb.

Strategies for Recovery

• Rest and Nutrition: Allow your body to recover with proper rest and a balanced diet, especially if weight was lost during the climb.

• Stay Active, But Gently: Engage in low-intensity activities such as walking, yoga, or kayaking to aid physical recovery.

• Psychological Recovery: Protect your experience by being selective about sharing details with others and process your thoughts through journaling or meditation.

Planning Your Next Adventure

While it's tempting to plan your next climb immediately, allow time to reflect on the previous experience before setting new goals.

The Ultimate Guide to Climbing Mount Rainier: Routes, History, and Preparation

Mount Rainier, the highest peak in Washington State, stands as a beacon for climbers and adventurers. Whether you're a seasoned mountaineer or a first-time climber, embarking on a Rainier journey requires preparation. This guide will cover everything you need to know about the history, popular climbing routes, and training tips to help you conquer this iconic mountain.

Mount Rainier’s Rich History

Discover the early attempts at summiting the mountain, including the first successful ascent in 1870 by Philomund Beecher van Trump and Hazard Stevens. Explore the mountain’s significance to Native American tribes and how it has been a gateway mountain for many climbers.

Popular Climbing Routes

• Disappointment Cleaver Route: The most popular route, with over 7,000 climbers annually.

• Emmons Route: Known for its lower rockfall risk and more extended approach through an alpine forest.

• Tips on choosing the right route for your skill level and what to expect along the way.

Preparing for Your Ascent

• Importance of building endurance, strength training, and carrying a heavy backpack.

• Mental preparation techniques to overcome fear of crevasses and high-altitude exposure.

Mount Rainier is more than just a climb; it's a journey through history, nature, and self-discovery. Prepare well, choose your route wisely, and respect the mountain.

How to Build Mental Toughness in Mountaineering: Lessons from Courtney Heitter

In this episode of Finding Elevation, I speak with Courtney Heitter about her path to becoming a mountaineer, despite not growing up athletic. Through endurance sports and trail running, Courtney discovered a passion for the mountains that pushed her far outside her comfort zone.

One of the key takeaways from our conversation is how discomfort plays a pivotal role in achieving your dreams. Courtney explains how embracing challenges—like gear malfunctions during summit attempts—helped her grow mentally stronger. Her motto? "Discomfort is the currency of your dreams."

Whether it’s overcoming failure on Mount Rainier due to asthma or struggling with crampons on Cayambe, Courtney’s journey is proof that resilience is key in mountaineering. She emphasizes the importance of having a support system and reframing failure as a learning experience.

Want to hear more about Courtney’s insights on mental toughness? Listen to the full episode of Finding Elevation here, and discover how to embrace discomfort in your adventures.

Unlocking Exercise Physiology for Endurance Athletes: Insights from Tom Cuddy

As endurance athletes, understanding our bodies' physiological responses during exercise is crucial for optimizing performance. In a recent episode of my podcast, Finding Elevation, I had the opportunity to speak with Tom Cuddy, an expert in exercise physiology and founder of Calibrated Coaching.

Tom explains the different energy systems fueling our bodies, from immediate ATP sources to the aerobic system that requires oxygen. He emphasizes the significance of lactate thresholds and VO2max testing, revealing how they impact our performance during intense activities like mountaineering and trail running.

One compelling topic was Tom's research on "vertical running economy." He highlights how even at the same VO2max, athletes can exhibit vast differences in uphill running speed based on their lactate levels and economy. Training to improve these factors can significantly enhance performance.

For serious athletes, Tom offers personalized physiological testing services, providing a comprehensive analysis to optimize your training approach.

Listen to the full conversation with Tom Cuddy on the Finding Elevation podcast here. Visit Calibrated Coaching for more information.

Mountain Medicine: How to Stay Healthy at High Altitude with Physician Tracee Metcalfe

High-altitude climbing is rewarding but poses serious risks to your health if you're not properly prepared. On my podcast, Finding Elevation, I spoke with Dr. Tracee Metcalfe about the best strategies to prevent altitude sickness and stay healthy on your climbs.

1.What Happens to Your Body at High Altitude?

• Tracee explains that your body begins to acclimatize by increasing breathing rates and red blood cell production.

• Prevent dehydration by drinking extra fluids in the first 24-48 hours.

2. Key Strategies to Prevent Altitude Sickness

• Tracee suggests using acetazolamide (Diamox) as a preventative measure.

• Managing blisters and covering your face properly can prevent infections and other complications.

3. Recognizing Symptoms and Taking Action

• Fatigue and difficulty breathing are warning signs of serious altitude sickness. In such cases, immediate descent and oxygen treatment are necessary.

Want to hear more from Dr. Tracee Metcalfe? Listen to the full podcast episode here to get deeper insights on high-altitude health, acclimatization, and empowering women climbers.

Preparing for Mount Everest: Pro Tips for a Successful Summit

Climbing Mount Everest, the highest mountain in the world, is an extraordinary challenge requiring extensive planning. Here are my expert tips for preparing to reach this iconic summit.

Develop a Strong Fitness Foundation

Physical fitness is non-negotiable. Focus on building cardiovascular endurance through months of zone 2 cardio training, complemented by lower body and core strength exercises. Attempting to summit another 8,000-meter peak first provides valuable experience in high-altitude conditions.

Master the Mental Game

Mental resilience plays a significant role in high-altitude climbing. Engage in visualization techniques, utilize mantras, and learn to overcome smaller challenges to build confidence. Understanding your motivations and setting a clear intention to summit will prepare your mind for the climb.

Prepare for the Unexpected

Unexpected situations can arise on Everest, so it's essential to anticipate potential challenges. Prepare a plan for each concern, whether it involves weather conditions or health issues. Always be mindful of your limits and be prepared to turn back if necessary.

Gear Up Properly

Proper gear can make or break your expedition. Ensure your oxygen mask fits correctly with your headgear, and consider adding practical features like a pee zipper. Test equipment, such as heated gloves, to guarantee they function effectively during the climb.

Support Your Summit

Find motivation through voice memos from loved ones or write a letter to yourself for encouragement. Document your journey with a post-summit selfie to capture your hard-fought achievement.

With these insights, you’ll be prepared for an Everest expedition that prioritizes health and safety. Remember, no mountain is worth risking your well-being. Trust your instincts and enjoy the incredible journey.

Finding Your Why in the Great Outdoors

In my latest episode of Finding Elevation, I tackle a vital topic: discovering your deeper purpose for outdoor adventure. As an avid mountaineer, I’ve come to understand how crucial it is to identify what drives us in the wilderness.

Growing up in the flatlands of Illinois, I didn’t see myself as an "outdoorsy" person. It wasn’t until I moved to Seattle for a corporate role that I felt compelled to climb and fit in with my athletic colleagues. Initially, my motivations were rooted in insecurity and the desire to prove myself.

The real turning point came when I faced a cancer diagnosis. This life-altering event pushed me to reassess my motivations. I discovered that my climbing pursuits weren’t simply acts of defiance; they were journeys of self-discovery and personal growth. My focus gradually shifted toward empowering women and giving back to the mountain communities that have shaped my journey.

In this episode, I share practical advice for clarifying your “why.” Techniques like journaling and repeatedly questioning your motivations can help you identify what truly drives you.

I also narrate a poignant experience from a fundraising climb in Nepal, where I tapped into my purpose—supporting education for girls to push through the toughest moments.

Understanding your motivations in the outdoors leads to more fulfilling adventures. I invite you to take time for self-reflection and uncover what drives you to embrace nature and challenge your limits. Your "why" is the key to transformative experiences on the trail.

Aconcagua: The Ultimate Guide to Summiting the Stone Sentinel of South America

Aconcagua, the highest peak in the Southern and Western Hemispheres, offers thrilling climbing routes and a rich history that demands exceptional skills and preparation. If you're ready for this awe-inspiring journey, let's gear up!

History and First Ascents of Aconcagua

Aconcagua's history dates back to 1883, with the first successful ascent occurring in 1911. Its name comes from the Quechua language, meaning "stone sentinel" or "snowy peak." Having climbed Aconcagua in 2011, I can attest that it’s more stone sentinel than snowy peak! If you're planning to conquer Aconcagua, expect to navigate a diverse array of rocks!

The first ascent was achieved by Swiss climber Matthias Zurbriggen in 1908, who faced treacherous weather conditions but reached the summit alone. Notably, Annie Smith Peck became the first female to summit Aconcagua in 1908 at the age of 58, defying norms by wearing pants. Imagine climbing a 22,000-foot peak in a dress!

Most Popular Routes and Terrain on Aconcagua

Aconcagua features several routes, with the Normal route and the 360-degree route being the most popular. The Normal route starts in the Horrcones Valley and typically takes about three weeks to complete, covering 42 miles and gaining 13,500 feet of elevation. Meanwhile, the 360-degree route begins in the Vacas Valley, intersects with the Normal route, spans 64 miles, and ascends 15,000 feet. Although these routes don't require technical climbing skills, climbers must be physically and mentally prepared.

The terrain of Aconcagua showcases diverse landscapes, from steep, loose rock to talus and boulders. Near the summit, crampons and ice axes are often necessary, and ropes may be required for specific sections of the climb.

Skills and Training for Summiting Aconcagua

To conquer Aconcagua, climbers need a mix of skills, experience, and training. A strong physical fitness level, proficiency in navigating steep terrain, and prior high-altitude climbing experience are crucial. Build endurance, strength, and resilience through long hikes, runs, or bike rides at least six months before your climb. Focus on cardiovascular fitness, lower body, and core exercises while acclimatizing yourself to high altitudes and harsh weather conditions. Consider winter camping or training in windy (but safe) conditions to simulate mountain conditions.

Challenges and Common Mistakes

Climbing Aconcagua is challenging, with a success rate ranging from 35% to 60%. Many climbers underestimate its difficulties and the effects of high altitude. One common mistake is failing to prepare for harsh weather conditions, with summit temperatures plummeting to -20°C (-4°F) and winds exceeding 100 mph. Regularly monitor mountain forecasts and equip yourself with the appropriate gear. To prepare mentally, listen to prior-season blog posts from expedition companies and check weather websites like mountainforecast.com.

Aconcagua, South America's resilient rock giant, symbolizes human grit and determination. With its rich history, tough routes, and unforgiving weather, it ranks among the top three most challenging of the Seven Summits.

If you're eager to push your limits and test your abilities, why not tackle Aconcagua? Get in shape physically and mentally—hire Alpine Athletics to help you prepare, train smart, and soak in the beauty of this magnificent peak. Always respect the mountain, prioritize safety, and remember: it's not a race.

Train Smart. Climb Prepared.

Mental Fitness in Climbing and Mountaineering: Why It Matters and How to Prepare

When it comes to climbing and mountaineering, physical fitness, technical skills, and equipment are often prioritized. However, one critical element that significantly impacts performance is mental fitness. Mental toughness can be the differentiating factor that enables climbers and mountaineers to achieve their goals and overcome challenges in the mountains.

The Importance of Mental Preparation

While physical strength and technical skills are essential, mental preparation is equally crucial for success and safety in climbing and mountaineering. The ability to maintain focus, manage fear and stress, and stay positive in the face of adversity is essential when tackling challenging routes or high-altitude expeditions.

Tips for Enhancing Mental Preparation

Here are several effective strategies to enhance mental fitness:

1. Visualization: Visualize success and mentally rehearse the climb. Imagine each step of the route and the necessary movements. This practice can help build confidence and reduce anxiety.

2. Positive Self-Talk: Use affirmations to bolster confidence. Replace negative thoughts with empowering statements that remind you of past successes.

3. Goal-Setting: Set clear, realistic, and achievable goals for each climb. Break larger objectives into smaller tasks to foster a sense of accomplishment.

4.Managing Fear and Stress: Acknowledge fear and anxiety without letting them overwhelm you. Develop strategies such as deep breathing exercises and mindfulness techniques to manage these emotions.

Building a Support Network

Developing a strong support network is vital for maintaining mental fitness. Connect with trusted friends, mentors, or fellow climbers who can offer emotional support and motivation. Sharing your concerns and successes with this network can significantly bolster your mental resilience.

Overcoming Challenges in the Mountains

Climbing and mountaineering present various challenges, including fear, fatigue, and altitude sickness. Here are strategies to navigate these obstacles:

1. Focus on Small Tasks: Break down larger goals into manageable steps to reduce feelings of overwhelm.

2. Stay Positive: Cultivate resilience and embrace challenges as opportunities for growth.

3.Embrace Discomfort: Recognize discomfort as part of the journey and use it to strengthen your mental toughness.

Addressing Post-Climb Challenges

Post-expedition letdown is common among climbers. Acknowledge these feelings and take time to reflect on your experiences to regain purpose and direction.

Sharing Strategies and Experiences

Discussing mental challenges and strategies with others can create a supportive climbing community. By sharing insights, climbers can help each other grow and succeed.

Mental fitness is a crucial aspect of climbing and mountaineering. By incorporating mental preparation strategies, building a support network, and developing techniques to overcome challenges, climbers can enhance performance and safety in the mountains. Remember, mental strength is just as vital as physical fitness, requiring consistent effort and practice. Keep climbing, push your boundaries, and focus on building your mental toughness.

Training Your Mind for Success: Mental Toughness for Adventure Athletes

Adventure sports require not just physical strength but mental toughness. Drawing from my experience summiting K2 and the Seven Summits, I’ve learned that mental training is as crucial as any physical workout. Here’s how to train your mind for peak performance:

1. Identify Your Core Motivation

Before starting your climb, take time to discover the deeper reasons behind your goal. Ask yourself "why" multiple times to reveal your most meaningful motivation. Whether it's self-fulfillment or family, having this emotional anchor will keep you grounded during tough climbs.

2. Build Mental Resilience with Positivity

Mountaineering is unpredictable, but you can train yourself to remain positive during adversity. Start by reframing setbacks in training and using mantras like "I'm prepared for this." Celebrate small victories to reinforce a positive mindset.

3. Visualize and Practice for Challenges

Afraid of crossing ladders over crevasses? Set up similar challenges in a controlled environment to prepare mentally. Practice visualization techniques to imagine yourself succeeding, so when real challenges arise, you’ll feel ready.

4. Use a Mental Toolkit to Stay Focused

Prepare mentally for summit day by stocking up on mental "gear." Whether it’s a mantra, a note from a loved one, or a visualization exercise, find what motivates you and use it to stay sharp.

5. Don’t Neglect Physical and Mental Self-Care

Proper nutrition, hydration, and rest are key to maintaining focus and avoiding exhaustion on the mountain. Pay attention to your body’s signals, and take breaks when needed to prevent both physical and mental burnout.

6. Lean on Your Support System

Surround yourself with people who support your goals and understand the challenges of mountaineering. A strong support network can help you stay motivated and maintain perspective.

With the right mental training and support, you’ll be ready to summit any mountain. Prepare your mind as thoroughly as you prepare your body for your next adventure.

How to Choose Your Next Mountain Adventure: A Step-by-Step Guide

Looking for your next mountain adventure? From Denali to Kilimanjaro, learn how to set mountaineering goals, train effectively, and choose the right climbs to challenge yourself.

Setting Your Adventure Goals

Start by identifying your long-term goals. Do you want to climb the Seven Summits or focus on becoming a stronger, more confident climber closer to home? Setting clear goals helps you chart a path forward. If your aim is Denali, but you’ve only tackled Rainier, consider climbing longer, expedition-style mountains like Kilimanjaro or Ecuador’s volcanoes to build experience.

Training for Expedition-Style Climbs

To succeed in the mountains, think of yourself as an endurance athlete. Training for climbs like Denali requires months of high-volume, low-intensity cardio to build your cardiovascular base. Alongside physical training, focus on learning mountain strategies, dealing with unpredictable weather, and building mental resilience.

Aligning with Climbing Organizations

Whether you're aiming for local peaks or Denali, surrounding yourself with experienced climbers and reputable organizations will enhance your success. Join national programs focused on mountain education or connect with like-minded adventurers to build a supportive network.

Ready for your next challenge? Check out our tailored expedition training plans!

What is Aerobic Threshold and how can I use it to improve fitness?

So, what is aerobic threshold and why - as an endurance athlete - do I care?

The range of beats per minute that your heart can sustain is organized into zones. There are as many ways to calculate heart rate (HR) zones as there are training plans, but they are all based on a percentage of your maximum heart rate. For simplicity, we’ll consider a four zone range. Keep in mind that your heart rate can be affected by many factors like stress, hormones, sleep, and medication. Heart rate zones are are also highly personalized, they’re dependent on your genetics, age, and fitness. Your lowest intensity zone is about 50 - 60% of your maximum heart rate and should be reserved for recovery. Your body will feel at ease in this zone and you are able to breathe easily through your nose. In this range, about 85% of the calories that you burn come from fat. Since we all, no matter how fit you are, have ample fat stores, athletes are able to maintain work in this low intensity zone for hours. In part, this is because your body is using oxygen to break down, or oxidize, the fat that it needs for fuel.

As the intensity of work increases, either because workload or pace increases or the terrain steepens, your heart beats faster to meet the demand for oxygen from your muscles. You are now in your second heart rate zone, and working at about 60 - 75% of your maximum heart rate. As the demand on your body increases, less oxygen is available to oxidize fat for fuel and your body produces excess lactate. So, as your HR increases your body responds by looking for other sources of fuel, which it readily find in the form of glycogen (sugar), also known as carbohydrates. Lactate production will continue to rise, causing symptoms like muscle weakness, rapid breathing and nausea. Climbers will often say that they’re “bonking” when they reach this stage. The HR at which your body predominately uses glycogen for fuel and the amount of lactate in your blood rises above it’s baseline level, is your aerobic threshold (AeT). Because we don’t have an endless supply of carbohydrates, you are only able to sustain work above aerobic threshold for two hours or less.

Determining your aerobic threshold allows you to maximize your training time. The goal of an endurance athletes is to improve your speed and power at your AeT. This is accomplished by training for many, many hours at, or just below your AeT. This type of work often feels easy, especially to athletes that have ascribed to the “no pain, no gain” training motto. Stick with it and over time your AeT will increase.

Why do endurance athletes care? A higher aerobic threshold allows you to work at higher intensities for longer.

There are many methods to determine your AeT, competing a blood lactate test or gas analysis test at a metabolic testing lab is the most accurate. You can also estimate your AeT by gradually increasing your exercise intensity on a run or cycle until you notice that it becomes more difficult to breathe through your nose. To do this, warm up for 15 minutes with easy running or cycling on flat terrain. Gradually increase your effort by increasing speed or incline until you notice that you begin breathing through your mouth. Note the HR at which this breathing transition occurs, it is approximately your AeT. It’s usually helpful to repeat this assessment several times.

Like HR zones, AeT is a personal number. Having a higher AeT than your climbing partner doesn’t mean that you are more fit than them.

Now that you know your AeT, it should become the foundation upon which you build your cardiovascular training. Plan to spend several training sessions per week, especially early in your training regimen, at this heart rate. If trail running is your preferred mode of cardio, begin with three forty-five minute runs per week and build up to one two-hour run and two one-hour runs weekly.

This type of training isn’t glamorous. But, it is the proven method to build your cardiovascular capacity. Over time, your aerobic threshold will increase which will allow you to work at higher intensities for longer periods of time.

Incorporating Technology into Endurance Training

There are many gadgets and apps available to record your workouts and track your training progress.

Most athletes already have a smart watch that records workouts and measures heart rate, pace, speed, elevation, power, distance, etc. If you don’t yet have one or in the market for a new one, i’ve had the best luck with Garmin devices. I personally have used the Fenix since its third iteration. Though it’s a sizable investment, I’ve not regretted the purchase once I started using the watch. On newer models I especially like the acclimatization and pulse oximeter features. Though I’m not a fan of it rating every run against the last one. There’s nothing more defeating than being a mile into a run, feeling great, hearing a ding! come from your wrist, looking down and Garmin telling you that you’re unproductive.

When you begin a training regimen, record all of your training sessions with your smart watch. There are arguments against recording strength sessions because they will skew your overall fitness calculation since your HR will be much lower than during a cardio session., so if you’re a HR zone purist, omit don’t record strength.. I strongly recommend uploading all of your workouts to an application that analyzes fitness, fatigue, training load, and heart rate zones. I, and every athlete I have coached, have used Training Peaks for many years. I like that it is geared toward endurance athletes, and has solid analytical data. The UI could be improved IMO but the analytics outweigh the some-times clunky interface. I especially like the ability to measure an athletes fitness, fatigue, and training load. And, I like that an athlete has access to all of the data and analytics that I do as a coach, it empowers the athlete and is another way to keep them engaged in their progress.

A word of caution: don’t let the data be the only measure of your progress. I’ve worked with several athletes that question whether they should complete a workout because their Oura ring told them to take a rest day. Data is great, it can be powerful. But, also thoughtfully consider how your body is feeling. If you’re not sore or fatigued, you probably don’t need a rest day.

In the end, I encourage athletes to test all of the gadgets and technology that the can, find one that works for you and your coach, and use it in a thoughtful way that enhances training, it shouldn’t be burdensome.

The Hypoxia Hurt Game

Your head hurts, you’re slight­ly nau­seous, each step you take injects pain into every cell of your body, and you have a hard time wran­gling the moti­va­tion to eat. Hun­gover? No. Just climb­ing at ele­va­tion. Wel­come to the hypox­ia hurt game.

As moun­tain ath­letes, the ele­va­tions that we play in affect our bod­ies and minds in many ways. If you’re like us, you want get the most out of your time trekking or climb­ing in the moun­tains, it’s impor­tant to under­stand the phys­i­o­log­i­cal changes that your body is endur­ing at ele­va­tion, and how they man­i­fest for you. 

How well you do at high alti­tudes depends on many vari­ables to be sure. You can train for months in advance of your trip and be in the best shape of your life, but if you ignore the poten­tial impacts of high alti­tude ill­ness your hard work may all be for naught. Prepar­ing for a high alti­tude trek or climb includes train­ing, get­ting the essen­tial equip­ment, some men­tal work, and under­stand­ing what your nutri­tion­al needs will be. But, the first and fore­most way to pre­vent ill­ness up high on your climb is knowledge.

How high is high?

Alti­tudes over 9,000 feet (2,743 M) are con­sid­ered high. This means whether you are on Mount Bak­er, Kil­i­man­jaro, or Aconcagua, you will be impact­ed no mat­ter who you are and how well you do up high. As ele­va­tion increas­es, atmos­pher­ic pres­sure decreas­es. Low­er pres­sure allows the oxy­gen mol­e­cules in air to spread out. This means that each of your inhala­tions at alti­tude con­tain few­er oxy­gen mol­e­cules. At the top of Ever­est (29,035 ft / 8848 M) the par­tial pres­sure of oxy­gen is one-third that of sea-lev­el. If you were mag­i­cal­ly deposit­ed at the top of Ever­est with­out pri­or acclima­ti­za­tion you would lose con­scious­ness with­in min­utes and you would die.

Adap­ta­tion

There soon becomes a lot of activ­i­ty in your body as you arrive at high­er alti­tudes. The first reac­tion is your body accli­mates to low­er pres­sure and less oxy­gen with both acute and longer-term changes. Ini­tial­ly, your body, won­der­ing where all the oxy­gen has gone, responds by increas­ing your res­pi­ra­to­ry and heart rates to increase oxy­gen deliv­ery to tis­sues. Then, your kid­neys start pro­duc­ing bicar­bon­ate and increas­ing urine pro­duc­tion to keep your pH neu­tral. After a cou­ple of days at a new ele­va­tion your heart and res­pi­ra­to­ry rates start to slow down as your pH returns clos­er to nor­mal. Your body also responds by increas­ing a hor­mone called ery­thro­poi­etin which in turn increas­es the pro­duc­tion of oxy­gen-car­ry­ing red blood cells. Increased ery­thro­poi­etin pro­duc­tion starts with­in min­utes of arriv­ing at high alti­tude but takes 2 – 3 weeks to complete.

How to pre­vent illness

If you’ve ever rushed the acclima­ti­za­tion process, like a two-day ascent of Mount Rainier, or dri­ven to the top of Pike’s Peak, you’re famil­iar with the headache that marks the onset of Acute Moun­tain Sick­ness (AMS). Oth­er alti­tude-relat­ed ill­ness such as High Alti­tude Pul­monary Ede­ma (HAPE), High Alti­tude Cere­bral Ede­ma (HACE) and High-Alti­tude Flat­u­lence Expul­sions (HAFE) can also occur; the for­mer two can be dead­ly, while the lat­ter only threat­ens the wel­fare of your tent mate and lead you to end up sleep­ing out­side. These risks can be min­i­mized by fol­low­ing a prop­er acclima­ti­za­tion strat­e­gy, chang­ing dietary habits, and in some cas­es by using medications.

If you are com­ing from low­er ele­va­tions, or even sea lev­el, those aren’t points against you in the game of high alti­tude moun­taineer­ing or trekking, it’s just some­thing that needs to be strate­gi­cal­ly han­dled with each new ele­va­tion reached. You don’t need the cen­turies old genet­ic adap­ta­tions to alti­tude of a Sher­pa or the Andean Quechua, just some basic things will go a long ways in help­ing you reach your goal.

As moun­tain ath­letes who endeav­or to climb high and feel as strong as pos­si­ble, the best way to work with the changes that alti­tude caus­es is to accli­ma­tize. Prac­ti­cal­ly, this means ascend­ing to a new high point then return­ing the same day to sleep at a low­er ele­va­tion. This climb high, sleep low approach allows your body to slow­ly adapt to the stress of per­form­ing in an oxy­gen deprived environment.

So, what’s a moun­tain ath­lete to do?

• If you’re join­ing a Moun­tain Mad­ness trip, please read the sec­tion of high alti­tude ill­ness in your depar­ture info we send you; otherwise,

• Plan acclima­ti­za­tion into your schedule

• Reduce as much stress on your body as pos­si­ble. Stay hydrat­ed, rest, eat well

• Com­mu­ni­cate how you’re feel­ing to your guide or teammates

• Lis­ten to your body — there are times when you have to push through the hurt and oth­ers when it’s bet­ter to take a time out; it’s ok to take a break now and then

Some sol­id resources

Train­ing by your­self or with a part­ner is fine, get a pro­gram dialed and stick to it. But, if you hire a train­er it’s worth con­sid­er­ing find­ing some­one that has some knowl­edge of high alti­tude climb­ing and trekking and what your body goes through. Alpine Ath­let­ics own­er Lisa Thomp­son, who has climbed the Sev­en Sum­mits and K2, has pro­grams that train you, gives you advice on equip­ment and nutri­tion, and that pro­vide invalu­able insights from some­one that has played the hurt game and over­came the chal­lenges of high altitude.

A go-to books to get you schooled and intrigued at the same time include is  Going High­er.

Con­trib­u­tors: Dr. Tracee Met­calfe, Lisa Thomp­son / Alpine Ath­let­ics, and Mark Gunlogson / Mountain Madness